Today Soweto has almost 1 million residents, home to the 2nd largest hospital in the world and has a very positive and energetic vibe, exuding change, but not forgetting their fight and struggle during the apartheid years. The perfect example of this, and now symbol of Soweto, are the Orlando towers. Once an ugly power plant generating power to the city center (whites), while residents of Soweto ( blacks) had no power and had to breath in polluted air, are now beautiful painted murals and an adventure center! At the adventure center you can bungee jump, base jump and power swing the 33 stories, or if heights aren't your thing, rock climb or paint ball.
We unfortunately didn't have time to bungee, but I did however concur another fear in Soweto, bike riding! Ahh! Most of you know, but in case you don't, I had a traumatic biking experience in Berlin a few years back and have not hopped on a bike since. Aly + Bike = Disaster. But with a quick lesson from Lebo's Bike Tour and the support of my new friends, I got the hang of it and joined the tour without an accident or being left behind! Yay! I will have to say, I am amazing at riding a bike and look great riding one. Watch out NYC, Citibikes and I are coming for you!
Despite what you might think or hear the township is very safe. We had our knowledgeable guide with us at all times, who seemed to know everyone, and another "security" rider at the end of the group to make sure no one was left behind. Tip: wear long pants & sneakers as it gets very dusty and in some of the areas have to ride over open sewer systems.
First stop the shebeen (bar), which really just looks like a tin shack, to taste some local brew and dress up in traditional Zulu adornments. The purpose of dressing in Zulu accessories was because back in the day it was illegal to drink alcohol, so if they dressed up in traditional attire the men (who drank the beer) and woman (who made the beer) could pretend they were have a traditional ceremony and not get in trouble with the law. The beer was not your familiar craft beer, warm, thick and sour, ick!
Next we went to a typical township restaurant. As we walked in we washed our hands in plastic basin, as most places don't have running water, then dined on grilled beef cheek dipped in salt & paprika accompanied by mealie pap, a staple of Southern African cuisine, a traditional polenta made from ground corn. You roll the pap in the palm of your hands and pop into your mouth, actually pretty delicious and loved the spicy paprika!
Afterwards we went to the Hector Pieterson Memorial. June 16, 1976 high school students took to the streets in a peaceful protest against the mandatory use of Afrikaans as a language in black schools, which ended up becoming a deadly altercation with the police. Hector Pieterson was the first student (12 years old) to be shot by police.
Lastly we visited Nelson Mandela's former home where he briefly lived at for 11 days after his release from Robben Island in 1990, before finally moving to his present house in Houghton, a very high end neighborhood. It was very interesting to see some of Mandela's personal artifacts and a glimpse of how most of Southern Africans live, as the house is identical to hundreds of others built on postage-stamp-size plots. Vilakazi Street, is also the only street in the world where 2 Nobel Peace Prize winners lived, Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu.
I would recommend this bike tour to any traveler going to Johannesburg! I left with a clear understanding about the violent history that was a reality just a few years ago. The bike tour also gives locals the chance to sell handmade products and food to tourists to generate an income going straight to the community.
If you would like any more information about traveling to Johannesburg or South Africa, please email Jetawayguru@gmail.com or visit www.JetawayGuru.com
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